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EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW TO UNDERSTAND MARINE EPOXY RESIN SYSTEMS - READ BEFORE YOU BUY!
BUY MARINE EPOXY HERE
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questions - support - online store link - hours - link to products and prices -
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..Marine Epoxy Resin..
and other epoxy products for your boat
MARINE CATALOG CLICK HERE TO ACCESS ONLINE CATALOG
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MAIN SITE HOMEPAGE
THREE MUST READ WEB PAGES
MPRICES - 2 part marine epoxy pricing issues - CLICK HERE -
MEPOXIES - comparing 2 part clear marine epoxies - CLICK HERE -
EVAL4U - how to evaluate your marine/non marine epoxy vendor - CLICK HERE -
Cedar strip canoe using Marine Epoxy and India Spar Varnish
WE'RE THE BEST SOURCE FOR ALL BOATING RELATED EPOXIES AND COATING! HERE'S WHY:No matter if your boat repair/building project is sitting in a 39 degree barn or sunk in 10 feet of water in the local harbor, our epoxies can save your day. We have Kevlar (tm) reinforced epoxies, marine non-blushing epoxies with bubble breaker additives (no one else has that!), two part polys in white or clear, and old fashion spar varnish. The clear has massive amounts of UV blockers. Need an epoxy barrier coat or an epoxy sealer/primer for that old weathered fiberglass hull? Does you hull have blisters? Need a thickened epoxy or DIY epoxy thickeners? Does the pontoon boat leak? Need to repair a spongy, rotting deck core? We can do all of that and also save your sinking or sunk boat AND help you build that stitch and glue kayak or 72 foot schooner (they used 200 gallons of our epoxy!). PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS INC. (marine catalog) or just call us 603 - 435 -7199 - available nights and weekends. Email anytime. - TOP FAVORITE EPOXIES --- WEB BOAT REPAIR LINKS --- BOAT EYE CANDY!
Customer's Basic No Blush (tm) epoxy boat building project
|"I've been using the Basic No Blush epoxy on all my own stuff, and using up all the West epoxy on most customers boats. When the West is finally gone I'll only be using your epoxies. Good stuff. I'm rebuilding an old Rybovich so a big order in the future..." Patrick (comment with on-line order 9/4/07) ---- Order No Blush online|
Epoxy Crazing Notice/Warning
There are two types of Marine Epoxy Vendors: 1) discount, bulk, REPACKAGERS who simple buy drums of raw resin and raw curing agent(s) from the big chemical companies and fill plastic jugs for resale; 2) FORMULATORS take the raw epoxy chemicals add to them to enhance and improve the raw "moonshine" into a "fine whiskey". Learn more repackagers/formulators.
Our Basic No Blush (tm) is a formulated non blushing epoxy by Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (homepage). that includes additions for reduced brittleness and exclusive (only we have it) bubble breakers for a more perfect looking finish. Basic No Blush is the least expensive of the formulated epoxies and considered the best marine epoxy by many ex-users of the other formulated epoxies.
REPACKAGED EPOXY WARNING: Over the years I have seen and had reports of non-formulated, raw resin/cure epoxies (which are extremely hard and brittle) becoming crazed with millions of cracks (like shattered safety glass) in outdoor settings that experience big changes in temperature. Formulated epoxies all seem to be 'fixed' to allow for this expansion and contraction without cracking by making them less brittle and better able to handle internal stresses.
Part 1 (non blushing epoxy resin systems)
All epoxies ("goo") are not the same. Look for non blushing marine epoxies - even if they cost a few bucks more. With a blushing marine epoxy (most of the epoxies sold are blushing epoxies) - you might always wonder if you have a good bond between coats and why you're paint isn't sticking. Plus you have to wash the surface between coats to remove the visible or invisible blush.
If the epoxy manufacturers really cared about your needs they would only sell you non-blushing epoxies (speaking in general terms - there are always exceptions) and not even offer blushing epoxies upon unsuspecting buyers.
More about amine blush - CLICK HERE (amine epoxy blush).
One of our marine epoxy competitors (now a mere impersonal, product line sub-division within a big industrial corporation) claims a 30% savings in time using non blushing marine epoxies. Non blushing marine epoxies do not require washing or sanding between epoxy coats or top coating with other paints. Note that we offer Basic No Blush marine epoxy with fast, slow and regular curing agents (and it also includes bubble breakers for a more perfect finish). Our Premium No Bush epoxy is Nonyl free and uses an special curing agent is can be air shipped (shipped without restrictions).
Part 2 (epoxy additives I)
Nonyl phenol is a non solvent additive that can be used added to either Part A or Part B. It does have some useful properties, but is often more widely used to 'water down' the epoxy, making it much cheaper to manufacturer and giving the vendor much higher profits. Nonyl can also retard the drying of enamel paint over epoxy. If you want to enamel paint your epoxy project either use a primer over the epoxy or use our Premium No Blush epoxy. More about Nonyl Phenol - CLICK HERE (nonyl phenol).
Part 3 (epoxy additives II)
FORMALDEHYDE - one of the major epoxy vendors uses formaldehyde in their curing agents! Check the MSDS of your vendor's epoxy for this chemical. (formaldehyde in competitor's curing agent - click here).
Part 4 (non hazmat alternatives)
Some epoxies are non-hazmat to ship (again, very few) - big thing here is that the non hazmat curing agents generally have a more gentle exotherm and slower more uniform curing - (doesn't get super hot, melt containers and turn hard in the blink of an eye). Note that the hazmat epoxies must be shipping by ground, not air, but generally no additional cost. Non-hazmat curing agents tend to be amber colored, hazmat curing agents can be amber or clear.
Hazmat or not - the ones with a more gentle exotherm always seemed better to work with - no worry of 'bubbling up or melting' the areas you are working on.
Part 5 (formulated marine epoxies and pricing)
The 'serious' marine epoxies are formulated using the raw resins manufactured by the giant chemical companies. Many (some?) low cost epoxy vendors merely repackage these raw bulk resins. Not a good thing!
The "drum to jug" repackagers come and go. New one seem to pop up every week. You want do do business with folks that actually formulate their marine epoxies - going two or three steps beyond the repackagers.
- Note that we (Progressive Epoxy Polymers) are the only family owned company on that list. Epoxies have been our focus since 1994 - 20 years of 2 part epoxy every single working day. We are also the smallest of those four companies. Our standard marine epoxy, Basic No Blush, is equal or better (SEE USER COMMENTS) than the other formulated marine epoxies and up to half the price of their marine epoxies (our prices/markups are too low/small to attract distributors - so we sell only via the internet and pass the 'distributor markup' to you - more on marine epoxy pricing).
A few 'repackagers' offer their epoxy at slightly less than we charge. The majority of them actually charge more, or a lot more, than we do for our formulated Basic No Blush marine. epoxy.
An ever increasing number of experienced DIY and profressional Boat Builders consider Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy to be the BEST product available (performance, consistency, properties, support and price). They've certainly tried all the other brands over the years. No other marine epoxy has our level of customer satisfaction - or rave reviews. Our customers can always buy cheaper 'repackaged' resins or the $$$ name brands at their local marine supply store. Instead they take the effort to always order our Basic No Blush (tm) Marine Epoxy either online or over the phone.
Part 6 (mix ratios)
Mix ratios as close to 1:1 or 2:1 are better as they tolerate slight errors in the mix ratio better. Given an error in a 5:1 mix ratio and you can suddenly be mixing it at 4:1 and not knowing it. The result might not be good. More about mix ratio errors - CLICK HERE (epoxy mix ratios). Most epoxies have a 1:1, 2:1 or 3:1 mix ratio (by volume).
The part B curing agent is much more expensive than the part A resin. By designing their marine epoxies to use less curing agent per amount of part A resin, a company maximizes their profit at your expense.
And finally, evaluate your marine epoxy by what other users say about it.
Customer feedback and comments on Basic No Blush marine epoxy resin - CLICK HERE.
|Order this EPOXY product NOW|
And what about temperature? Our Basic No Blush epoxy resin comes with regular, slow (summer - 80's 90's), or fast (winter 30's and 40's) curing agents.
Why Basic No Blush (tm) epoxy is the BEST in its class:
1. A formulated blended resin system (not repackaged raw chemicals) Pefect for laminating or repairs
2) Uses NON BLUSHING curing agent for blush free results
3) not too thick, not too thin, not too brittle - ever see an epoxy surface with millions of tiny cracks? It is brittle, repackaged (see #1) not formulated epoxy
4) the only marine type epoxy with bubble breakers for superior flaw free finishes and uniform properties and appearance and allows for thicker, multiple layers with better clarity
5) the only epoxy adduct marine type epoxy for superior enhanced properties (standard cure only)
6) strong user support / feedback
7) 24/7 support email email@example.com
8) less expensive than the other formulated epoxies which still don't have many of the advantages listed here
|THIS PRODUCT||xx||EMAIL US||xx|
|air shippable||cycloaliphatic system|
|no nonyl phenol||epoxy adduct system||xx|
|multi curing agents||xx||bulk pricing||xx|
|solvent free||xx||no Calif. sales|
|2 part epoxy||xx||2 part poly|
|apply underwater||bubble breakers||xx|
|favorite(s) product list||xx||data sheets||xx|
|PACKING - jugs/bottles||xx||PACKING - cans||xx|
|find in non marine cat||xx||find in marine catalog||xx|
|BUY online||BUY online||xx|
|home page||xx||contact page||xx|
Additional product information/mentions about BASIC NO BLUSH can also be found at the following site(s) - http://www.paints-coatings-epoxies.com/a_basic_marine_epoxy.html
Additional product information/mentions about BASIC NO BLUSH can also be found at the following MOBILE FRIENDLY site(s) - http://www.everything-epoxy.info/a-marine.html
Basic No Blush epoxy with fast winter cure - winter time boat building!
DID YOU KNOW... part 1
Basic No Blush being used at boat
building school in the Pacific NW
(no better endorsement than that!)
The Wind & Oar Boat School is located in Portland, OR (http://wind-and-oar-boatschool.org/).
Currently (7/11) they are working on a St Ayles skiff, with a group of 10 completely novice women doing the build.
Its the first all women build and the first on the west coast. The St Ayles Skiff is a Iain Oughtred design done
for the Scottish Fisheries Museum and now the cornerstone of the Scottish Coastal Rowing Project (http://scottishcoastalrowing.org/).
Last fall WoodenBoat Publications picked up the concept and got 5 high schools in Maine to start the boat and I
am mirroring the idea for high schools in Portland. The first youth boat will start this fall but in the mean time
a group of women approached me about building one too. The Wind & Oar Boat School is building communities through
building boats. We encourage groups of all shapes and sizes to experience the camaraderie, team building, collaboration,
and self confidence that arise from working towards a common goal.
When it came time to decide about epoxies, the school turned to Michael Bogoger (Dory-man) for advice. He suggested your product and we've been extremely happy with it. The forgiving nature of the Basic No-Blush (tm) marine epoxy has been ideal for a school situation where many people are mixing and consistency is not necessarily high. Michael has covered our build on his blog several times and this link http://dory-man.blogspot.com/2011/06/wind-and-oar-boat-building-school.html) is to one of his posts where you can see us using the No Blush epoxy product.
Whether you want a group team building exercise or a grade school introduction to wood and water, the Wind &
Oar Boat School will tailor a course to fit your needs. Our first build is a group of 10 women, of diverse ages,
who without any woodworking experience are now building a 22 foot St Ayles Skiff.
DID YOU KNOW... part 2
Epoxy coatings are used because of their
outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond
Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical
reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard
Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are top coated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.
Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.
By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.
Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied).
The best time to recoat epoxy is within about 48 hours after the initial coat. Because epoxies take days to reach full cure, a second coat applied shortly after the first coat will partially fuse to the first coat rather than forming a simple mechanical bond.
End users can thicken epoxy with many things, Tiny glass spheres, known as micro-spheres or micro-balloons are commonly used. Besides thickening, their crushable nature makes sanding the hardened epoxy easier. On the downside, they work like tiny ball bearings, resulting is sagging and slumping. Another thickener is fumed silica (a common brand name is Cabosil (tm)) which looks like fake snow. About 2 parts fumed silica with one part epoxy will produce a mixture similar in texture and thickness to petroleum jelly. Micro-spheres and fumed silica can be combined together.
Fisheyes are areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away for the substrate leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. Often fisheyes are caused by surface contaminants such as a bit of silicon, wax, or oil. I have also seen them on clean plywood where epoxies paints have been used as sealers and the problem might be due to uneven saturation (soaking-in) of the epoxy into the wood. Surface tension plays a big part in fisheyeing. There are some additives that can be mixed into the epoxy that will reduce surface tension. Likewise, on wood, applying several coats of solvent thinned epoxy, instead of one coat of unthinned epoxy, seems to work well. Applying a thick coat of epoxy over a contaminated fisheye surface will bury the fisheye but expect the coating to peel away in the future. As a rule of thumb, always suspect some sort of surface contamination as the primary cause of fisheyeing.
Adding a bit of solvent to a solvent based or solvent-free epoxy is something that most manufacturers would not officially approve of and something that might not work with all epoxies. However, it can be done (unofficially) with the epoxies I deal with. Adding solvent to these epoxies will: 1) thin them out; 2) increase pot life; 3) allows them to flow off the brush/roller a bit more smoothly; and 4) perhaps allows them to ‘soak-in', penetrate, or may be soften, the substrate just a little bit. Not change is visible in the epoxy unless 12% or greater solvent is added. With that amount of solvent, the epoxies no longer cure with a glossy finish.
It is best to use epoxies with a mix ratio close to 1 to 1 as opposed to something 4-1, 5-1, etc. because errors in the mix ratios can be more pronounced with the latter. That said, no matter what the mix ratio is, some epoxies are more forgiving of mix ratio errors than others. One ‘trick' of epoxy vendors with odd or very sensitive mix ratios is to sell calibrated pumps that disperse the epoxy components in exact amounts.
How Thick? How thick should your coating be? Economics play a major role in determining how much coating to apply. One U.S. gallon contains 231 cubic inches. That's only 1.6 cubic square feet of surface at one inch thick and that's also assuming a solvent-free product. If the product is 25% VOC (i.e. 25% solvent) then dry thickness/coverage will be 25% less. Again, assuming a 1/4 inch thick coating (250 mils) maximum coverage will still be only 6.4 square feet per gallon. A solvent-free (100% solids) epoxy coating applied at 16 mils will cover 100 square feet per gallon (note: the wall paint in your office is probably 2-4 mils). While thick coatings sound like a good idea, they use so much product that they must be made very cheaply so that coating 1,000 or 10,000 square feet can still be done at a competitive price. A high quality, fairly expensive product with a coverage rate of 100 sq. feet or more per gallon, on the other hand, will have a low enough cost per sq. foot to provide both economy and top quality.
The Marine Epoxy Everything Guide
Everything from user reviews, repair examples,
pricing issues and vendor evaluation tips
Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy Product Page
Marine Epoxy Catalog page (multiple epoxies)
Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy User Reviews / Feedback
How To Evaluating Marine Epoxy brands and Vendors
Marine Epoxy prices - what it really costs!
Marine Epoxy amine blush - what is epoxy Blush?
Boat repair examples using Marine Epoxy
Dinghy Marine Epoxy boat repair case study
Progressive Epoxy Polymer's marine web site
Buy two part Marine Epoxy now
Buy two part Marine Epoxy now
Massive site of Internet boat links
catalog marine CLICK HERE www.epoxyproducts.com/mproducts.html
Section One MARINE - CLEAR EPOXIES
Section Two FILLERS THICKENERS ADDITIVES
Section Three THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.
Section Four EPOXY PAINTS (barrier coats)
Section Five URETHANES AND NON-EPOXY COATINGS
Section Seven MARINE REPAIR PRODUCTS
Section Eight MISC. MARINE PRODUCTS
catalog industrial CLICK HERE www.epoxyproducts.com/products4u.html
Section A EPOXY PAINTS
Section C THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.
Section D CLEAR EPOXIES - CLEAR COATINGS
Section E NON-EPOXY PAINTS COATINGS SEALERS
Section F MIX-IN ADDITIVES
Section G OTHER PRODUCTS
Section H SURFACE PREPARATION PRODUCTS
Section I MISC. ACCESSORIES
The Right Epoxy fixes Everything!